Keepin' It LocalA recent report by the University of Georgia’s College of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences (available here) outlined the potential economic benefit that would result from an increase of local consumption by Georgia consumers.
Local Planet sat down with Atlantan Ryan Turner, an early advocate for buying local, to discuss the locavore, farm-to-table trend.
Many of our readers know Ryan Turner from the namesake restaurant and deli, Muss & Turner’s, that he opened a few years back with partner and chef, Todd Mussman. Ryan is currently working with Mussman and Chris Hall, formerly of 4th & Swift and Canoe, to launch their newest venture, Local Three, which will open later this year in the space recently vacated by Joel Brasserie.
Patrons of Muss & Turner’s – and most Local Planet readers will be among this group – can attest to the eatery’s commitment to sourcing local, Georgia-grown products. More importantly, they can vouch for the superior taste and quality that comes with using fresh regional food, be it produce, artisan meats, charcuterie and cheeses, and even locally produced beer and wine. Along with being fresher and more flavorful, a commitment to local producers also benefits the local economy, supports family farms and reduces the impact on our environment by lowering transport costs and emissions. Moreover, as we explored in our recent article on buying local, small, Georgia-based producers – most of which are family-owned small businesses – also tend to be better stewards of the land, and most eschew the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. So why don’t more people – consumers, chefs and restaurateurs alike – make a commitment to local products? Ryan Turner and his partners wonder the same thing and – like Local Planet – they are working to increase awareness, inform, educate and advocate for Georgia farmers and artisan food producers.
Turner’s approach to buying local is as simple as it is consistent and void of compromise: If a product is in season and available from local sources, then that’s what his restaurant will serve. That means sourcing from local suppliers, often directly from small, family-owned farms, will always be preferential to other sources. It also means that when products are not in season, Turner won’t serve them. So you won’t find fresh blueberries or tomatoes on the menu during winter at Muss & Turner’s. “Quality comes first, of course,” Turner explains. “And we will never compromise here. But, if local product is available, then we will use it. Full stop. We also believe there is reason to the season. As a result, we won’t buy produce from overseas just because it’s not in season in Georgia. Instead, we’ll adapt our menu.” Turner says he has had to educate his guests and, once they are aware of the issues, they accept the alternatives. Hence, their popular BLT becomes a BLR (Bacon, Lettuce and roasted Red peppers) in the winter months and remains just as popular.
Turner, Mussman and Hall intend to carry this philosophy over to their new venture, Local Three, as well and, if anything, will increase their commitment to the locavore movement. “It’s just the right thing to do -- for us, the local farmers, the economy and our guests,” Turner relates. He finds it important to educate consumers without being preachy, especially children. “Kids really need to understand where food comes from, how it’s prepared and the important role that fresh, nutritious food plays in our lives, our health and our community.” Reflecting this, Turner encourages parents to bring their children to the restaurant and nothing makes the young father happier than to see a couple with young children enjoying an evening out at Muss & Turner’s.
The new restaurant, Local Three, is due to open in October and will embrace this approach as well. According to Turner, it intends to be a comfortable neighborhood place without dress code or pretense, where the food has the starring role. Ryan envisions a place where businessmen in suits, dudes in shorts and flip-flops, and young families with children will feel equally at home. The one common denominator should be a love of food.
Turner and his partners have also extended their commitment to local food beyond their restaurant ventures, supporting the launch of one of Atlanta’s newest farmer’s markets F.A.R.M.(which stands for Farmers Atlanta Road Market). Located just across the street from Muss & Turner’s, at St. Benedicts Episcopal Church at the intersection of Atlanta Road and East West Connector. F.A.R.M. offers products from many of the same producers that also supply the restaurant.
So what does it take to embrace a commitment to local food and make it work for a busy restaurant and is this just a fad or a trend that’s built to last? Turner’s response is characteristically direct and unvarnished: “You need a team of people that cares, that takes ownership and is committed. It can be a bit more work sometimes, but it’s worth it. And, let’s face it; at the end of the day, it’s the only way to build a business that will last, that’s sustainable. We believe this is more than a trend – it’s the only way forward. In a few years buying local will be nothing unusual, it just makes too much sense in so many ways.” At Local Planet, we couldn’t agree more.
From: localplanet.com